Chinese Kesi Craft
"An Inch of Kesi Equals An Inch of Gold"
緙絲,舊稱「刻絲」,是擁有千年歷史的中國非物質文化遺產工藝,
向來以「一寸緙絲一寸金」形容其珍稀與繁複。
與一般織造不同,緙絲以緯線逐段「刻織」成紋,紋樣可正反一致,層次分明,被視為絲織工藝中最為精細的表現之一。
Kesi, formerly known as “carved silk weaving,”
is a millennium-old Chinese intangible cultural heritage craft,
long revered for its rarity and complexity—often described as
“an inch of Kesi worth an inch of gold.”
Unlike conventional weaving, Kesi forms patterns through segmented weft insertion, allowing motifs to appear identical on both sides of the fabric,
making it one of the most refined expressions of silk craftsmanship.
The Art of Kesi Silk Weaving
Kesi, also known as “carved silk,” has a history of over 2,000 years. Originating in ancient Egypt and introduced to China through the Silk Road, it remains the only weaving technique in the world that cannot be replicated by machines. Since the Song and Yuan dynasties, Kesi has been renowned as an exclusive art for the imperial family and nobility, representing the pinnacle of Chinese silk craftsmanship.
Where Threads Weave Time
During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Suzhou became the heart of Kesi production. Due to its slow and intricate hand-weaving process, Kesi has long been treasured, earning the titles “an inch of Kesi is worth an inch of gold” and “the saint of weaving.” Its essence lies in twelve Chinese characters: continuous warp, broken weft; viewable on both sides; creation from emptiness. These phrases define its core technique, aesthetic standard, and conceptual depth, distinguishing it from embroidery.
A Legacy Woven in Silk
In 2009, Kesi was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognizing its unparalleled cultural significance. Today, Suzhou remains the sole center of this heritage, with fewer than 200 artisans capable of completing an entire piece — most of them over 50 years old. As the craft faces a shortage of successors, the artistic and collectible value of Kesi continues to rise.
Runway-Selected Craft Pieces
When traditional craftsmanship enters an international fashion context, we allow the material itself to speak.
Color-Gilt Kesi Weave Qipao
Showcased at the 2025 CENTRESTAGE, this short Qipao employs the intangible heritage Kesi technique of “Gold-Glass Imitation Mixed Weaving”— a high-end composite kesi craft,combining colored gold threads with glass-like imitation materials.
The short silhouette paired with modern tailoring, along with traditional Chinese frog buttons and a sleek hem, blends the ancient brocade charm of millennium-old kesi into contemporary styling, achieving a fusion of “ancient brocade, modern wear.”
Kesi Craft Long Camisole
Showcased at Thailand Fashion Week 2025, this long vest features a 24K gold foil base enhanced with fine Kesi-style weaving, ensuring both a luxurious surface sheen and long-term material stability.
Through the intangible heritage Kesi technique, geometric diamond patterns unfold in layered tonal variations, with precise control of warp and weft density creating rhythmic depth across the fabric. The piece balances artistic expression with collectible value, reflecting the evolution of Kesi craftsmanship within a contemporary context.
Gilded Kesi Geometric Long Tank Top
Selectted at Thailand Fashion Week 2025, this long vest is crafted with a pure silver foil base combined with fine, Kesi-inspired dense weaving.
The cool sheen of silver foil intertwines with Kesi’s layered texture, creating a restrained metallic depth that shifts subtly with light. Gilded motifs are woven into the fabric in a relief-like structure, preserving the elegance of Eastern craftsmanship while highlighting the refined materiality of intangible heritage textile techniques—revealed through a clean, elongated silhouette.
Kesi Suit
Selected at Thailand Fashion Week 2025, this men’s suit is crafted from a silver foil-based Kesi fabric, incorporating brocade techniques to weave floral motifs subtly wrapped within a geometric grid.
The suit merges the richness of Tang brocade with the refined elegance of silver foil. Featuring a modernized Mandarin-collar suit silhouette, the design retains Eastern sartorial language while remaining versatile for a range of formal and semi-formal occasions, allowing intangible heritage craftsmanship to integrate seamlessly into contemporary menswear.
Co-ord Set
This tailored co-ord set is crafted from silver foil-based Kesi fabric — Kesi, a millennium-old Chinese intangible cultural heritage craft, is long celebrated with the saying “an inch of Kesi is worth an inch of gold” for its rarity and artistry.
The cool sheen of the silver foil weaves with Kesi’s intricate texture, letting the garment’s patterns unfold naturally alongside its tailored lines. The traditional Chinese frog buttons on the skirt further blend the delicate, heritage-rich texture of this ancient craft into the sleek silhouette of a modern co-ord—marrying the elegance of age-old artistry with the sharp sophistication of contemporary fashion.
Heading 2
Debuted in CENTRESTAGE 2025, this long blazer is crafted from gold foil-based Kesi fabric.
In this piece, the gold foil’s luster glows softly through the plaid texture, shifting with the garment’s folds to cast a subtle metallic sheen. The Kesi patterns woven into the blazer, rendered with the Intangible Cultural Heritage craft’s fine, meticulous stitches, preserve the ancient art’s delicate texture while merging it with a modern blazer silhouette—allowing the cultural essence of this thousand-year-old craft to unfold naturally in contemporary styling.
-
Weave Tapestry
絲錦臻品
-
Masterpiece of Textiles
織物瑰寶
-
Weft Weaving
通經斷緯
